May 25, 2008.

More Nepalese Women summited Everest.

Ms.Chunu Shrestha and Mr.DaGombhu Sherpa successfully climbed Mt.Everest today.

Expedition site : – http://www.longtail.info/fiwse/news.htm

May 24, 2008, at 8:30 am.

Five members of 1st Inclusive Women Expedition scale Mt Everest Five Members of First

Inclusive Women Sagarmatha Expedition 2008 have successfully climbed the Mt. Everest on Thursday, a press release issued by the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation said.

Susmita Maskey, Maya Gurung, Nwang Phuti Sherpa, Pemba Diki Sherpa and Poojan Acharya were among the 10 members of the expedition to the world’s tallest peak (8848 m).

Five high altitude workers from the team – Pemba Dorje Sherpa, Kaji Sherpa, Phurba Tenzing Sherpa, Ang Gelu Sherpa and Karma Gyelije Sherpa – also climbed the peak today.

The First Inclusive Women Sagarmatha Expedition 2008 team was permitted to climb the Mt. Everest from the normal route for the period of 75 days from April 16, 2008 under the leadership of Susmita Maskey. The team had set out to the Everest Came camp on April 14.

The government had waived all royalties equivalent to US$ 100,000 to the team and also granted financial assistance of Rs 1 million to this team.

This was the biggest all-Nepali women expedition to the Everest. The main objective of the expedition was to draw the world’s attention to gender equality, women empowerment and the effects of climate change in the Himalayas.

- nepalnews.com mk May 22 08

21st May 2008, 3.30 pm.

Good news received from Everest base camp. Just 5 minutes ago, our base camp person Lunduk sherpa & liaison officer called up & passed the information that our Everest team did 100% summit success in Mt Everest Expedition.

Following clients & Sherpas did the summit at 11.45am :

1 Ms Kalpana Dash – Leader- 07/07/1966 Indian.

2 Mr Ryszard Kurdziel – Member 05/10/52 Canadian.

Kalpana Dash is actually from Kumbhar Sahi, Kanchan Bazar, Dhenkanal, state: Orrisa, India

Following climbing sherpas from the same team reach on the summit at the same time :

1. Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa from Solukhumbu district, Sotang – 6
2. Kusang Tenzing Sherpa from Taplejung district, Lelep – 9
3. Ngima Nuru Sherpa from Solukhumbu district, Namche – 4Lhakpa & Kusang on top of Mt Amadablam

Ngima nuru did the 10th summit on Mt Everest. I think they discent to camp IV today & descent all the way to EBC by tomorrow.

Rosa Maria descent to the BC safely, she is taking rest & probably trek back soon.

Congratulation to all of you

Posted by Dawa, KTM – http://www.arunexpedition.com/

20th May 2008

It’s right time for shouting!!!! We did the first Mt Everest summit 2008 on the south side.

“Congratulation to our team”

We did first Mt Everest summit from the South side. Cheers my friend Namgya Sherpa, yes actually he is my best friend.

Few information of Namgya Sherpa!!!!!Namgya on Summit of Mt Everest last year 2007

Namgya Sherpa, a permanent resident of Lelep V.DC – 8, Taplejung district, (a very far eastern region of Nepal) & now temporary resident of Kathmandu is a very successful mountain guide. He started trekking & mountaineering expedition field as a junior trekking sherpa man who just carry backpack of client. But now this is his 7th times summit on Mt Everest. Last year on the north side of Mt Everest he did twice summit.

How did he make the first Mt Everest Summit from the south east route?

He went up to Everest base camp after guiding a trekking team to Langtang region. As I remember he flew to Lukla on 3rd may 2008 & he is on the top on 20th may, which means that within the 17 days only. What a great job Namgya!!! Cool.

Yesterday around 4pm, I have received a call from my base camp cook, Mr Lunduk sherpa, we just talked few minutes. He said ………………..

“ Hello Dawa, today Namgya Sherpa reached on the top of Mt Everest at 3.30 pm. Plus Rosa Fernandez Maria & Da Chhiri Sherpa, they made summit of Mt Lhotse at 8.35 am.”

Ms Rosa Fernendez Maria, from Spain, is a real Himalaya mountain climber; she did Mt Everest with us before. Da Chhiri Sherpa, an experienced climbing sherpa from Namche- 4, date of birth 1977. I don’t say 100% that Rosa & Da Chhiri is the first summit persons on Mt Lhotse spring 2008 but I can say more than 50% that they are the first summiteers on Lhotse as well.

I am waiting for more news from Everest base camp. Richard an experienced Canadian climber supposes to go on summit this morning. Ms Kalpana Dash, an indian lady climber is doing well, she plan to go for summit attampt on 23rd morning. I will up date the news soon as possible.

Dawa Lama from KTM. – http://www.arunexpedition.com/

I Recommend …

MountEverest.net – http://www.mounteverest.net/

Apa Sherpa reached the summit of Everest for a record 18th time at 5:45 am on May 22. Ang Mingma Sherpa of Thame village was with him, reports Ang Tshering.

Check out a previous ExWeb special story on this subject “Everest: Who will be the first climber to summit 20 times?” . The current Everest summit record status is (courtesy Rodrigo Granzotto Peron):

Apa: 18
Chuwang Nima: 14
Lhakpa Gelu: 13
Phurba Tashi: 13
Big Dorje: 13
Nga Temba: 12
Mingma Tshering: 2
Nima Gombu: 12

Apa had no plans to make an 18th attempt this year until he heard about the Eco-Everest Expedition formed by Dawa Steven. The Eco-Everest expedition was created to study the effect of global warming on the glaciers of the Himalayas and to educate the people of the Himalayan highlands about the dangers of flooding due to increasing melt water.

Eco Everest near traverse double header

The Eco Everest expedition summited Lhotse yesterday at 8:35 am. They stayed on the summit for nearly 45 minutes. Dawa Steven plans to descend to Camp II, rest, and then attempt the summit of Mt. Everest with fellow team members of the Eco Everest Expedition.

International Lhotse Expedition 2008 Summitters:

Dawa Steven Sherpa (Nepal), Stuart G. Smith (US), David Liano Gonjalez (Mexico), Nima Kanchha Sherpa (Nepal), Pemba Tshering Sherpa (Nepal), Palden Nyange Sherpa (Nepal).

Dawa Steven reached the summit of Cho Oyu from the north side in Autumn 2006, and the summit of Everest in Spring 2007.

The International Lhotse Expedtion 2008 is organized by Asian Trekking.

Sherpa summits Everest for record 18th time

KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) — A mountaineering official says a veteran Sherpa guide has scaled Mount Everest for a record 18th time.

Ang Tshering of the Nepal Mountaineering Association says Appa reached the 29,035-foot summit along with several of his team members early Thursday.

Appa — like most Sherpas — goes by only one name.

As many as 59 climbers have scaled the world’s highest peak in the last three days and many more are headed to the summit because of favorable weather conditions.

Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

oryginal post by : – http://himalman.wordpress.com/

I Recommend …

MountEverest.net – http://www.mounteverest.net/

Project-Himalaya Jamie McGuinness called ExWeb from the summit of Everest, reporting plenty of climbers enroute or on top. More are expected up tomorrow and Friday.

Meanwhile, also Lhotse has been topped out and more summit reports keep arriving from Makalu. On Annapurna, the situation is still serious but at least Iñaki and Alexey are alive, and a rescue is underway.

Today’s summit reports

First summit news from Everest today was reported by Mountain Madness team (check a separate story published earlier today).

Shortly afterwards, Dominique was the first Peak Freaks member to reach the top. According to the team’s latest report Larry, Scott and George were closing in as well. Leader Tim Rippel was in between everyone, watching for Farouq and Sultan who were behind. Tim said everyone was moving slow as there were about 50 people in front of him. Saad Naseer aborted his speed ascent attempt.

Project-Himalaya team members, including leader Jamie McGuinness, also topped out. Listen to Jamie’s live voice message from the summit here!

Alan Arnette did not climb with Project-Himalaya (as earlier stated on ExWeb) but with Mountain Professionals (small team led by Ryan Waters). Extremely tired, Alan turned aborted at the Balcony and decided to return to Camp 4, according to his home team.

“At 6:23am (Nepal time) Danuru (#10), Dawa (#6), Casey (#2), and Ari reached the summit,” IMG Leaders Mark Tucker and Ang Jangbu reported. “Bob and Nima Karma turned at the South Summit on the way up and are now back to the Col. Vance, Chip, Joe, Adam and Kurt were on their way from C3 to C4.” In a later dispatch, IMG confirmed the summiteers had safely reached back in C4.

Spaniards Pepe Baena and Ricardo Guerrero, members in Cordoba Everest team, summited around 11:00 am, local time, after a 10 hours-long climb from C4. Also Spaniards Xavi Arias, Xavi Aimar and Lina Quesada have topped out.

SummitClimb team members Matt, Barry, John (Irish), John (from UK) and Ken reached C4 yesterday, planning to summit today. Andrew Brash, currently in C3, congratuated “Ken and the guys,” for having summited Everest in the morning.

Nepal Government still restricting comms?

While most teams seems to be able to use their sat-phones, Alpine Ascents’ crew in US has posted the following note: “We are still operating under limited communications based on the government restrictions,” they stated. AA team planned to reach C3 today.

Everest teams lower down

Andrew Brash arrived in C3 today. “Tomorrow morning it’s to the south col for us, and then summit night on the 22nd/23rd – no pressure,” he reported.

Adventure Consultant climbers are still holding in C2. “This morning we were greeted by the longest trail of bodies from Camp 3 towards Camp 4, anyone, even our Sherpa staff had ever seen,” they reported yesterday. “This made us happy, it hopefully means fewer people on our summit day.”

François-Guy Thivierge’s expedition, also comprising Sébastien Audy and two Sherpas, will attempt to reach the top tomorrow.

Mountain trip team members are also having a rest day in C2 today.

Lhotse: Summits, further news expected, and a rescue

Back in C3 at 7000m, Arnold Coster has reported on member Harris and Lhakpa Sherpa topping out yesterday, in spite of pretty strong wind. Maya Sherpa, Jangbu Sherpa and Arnold himself eventually turned around due to the windy conditions.

Spaniard Rosa Fernández also summited yesterday, together with a Sherpa and using supplementary O2. She had set off from C2.

As for today’s summits, there are good news from Asian Trekking international team: at 8.45 am, local time, Dawa Steven bagged his third 8000er after Cho Oyu and Everest. Team mates Stuart G. Smith, from Texas, Mexican David L. González, Nima Kanchha Sherpa, Peba Tshering Sherpa, and Palden Nyange Sherpa followed shortly after.

After some rest back in BC, Dawa will attempt Everest together with his fellow mates from eco Everest team.

Meanwhile, news is expected from Italians Mario Merelli and Marco. “There’s been lots of rumors, but no confirmed information yet,” Patricia from Mario’s home team stated. “Earlier today, Silvio Mondinelli told me from BC that Mario and Marco should be moving towards the summit at that moment.”

Carlos Pauner has just reported from C4. He was extremely tired, and reported he had turned around shortly before the summit.

Yesterday, there was also a rescue going on on Lhotse: a rock slide hit some tents in C4, injuring a member in a military team from Jaca, Spain. Francisco Borja was hit in the leg and had to be helped all the way down by his mates, who needed the entire night to bring him safely back to BC.

Makalu: Summits and retreats

Joao García is back in BC from Makalu summit, recovering form an exhausting climb in cold conditions. He reported on Andrew (Australian Andrew Lock) and Hector having reached the summit three hours ago. This would mark Lock’s 8000er number 13, with only Shishapangma left.

Catalan climbers Blanca Ardanaz and Jordi Servosa phoned yesterday from BC. They had summited on May 18 at 1:00 pm, local time, without O2 or Sherpas. The two climbers succeeded in their first shot, starting from C2. Blanca had previously summited Broad Peak last year, while Jordi had attempted Everest in 2006. They shared permit with the Basque Expedition.

Andalusians and Basques have finally called from C4 , after turning around on a summit bid on May 19, due to rough weather conditions.

Annapurna

Check out a separate story posted today.

Links to teams on Everest and Himalaya:

Everest

Canadian Mallory
Irish Everest/Graham and Ian
Klimb for kids/Tim Warren
James Balfour
No guts know glory/Rob Hill
Lee Farmer
Adventure Peaks
Peak Freaks
IMG
Alpine Ascents
Adventure Consultants
Summit Climb
Alaskan Granite
Danish Everest
Cordoba Everest
Nepalese 77 year old
Eco Everest/Dawa Sherpa
Coldfeat Fiennes/Cool
Mountain Madness
Jagged Globe
Lincoln Hall rescuers Andrew Brash, Myles Osborne and Dan Mazur
MountainTrip dispatches
Project-Himalaya Everest dispatches
Cheryl and Nikki Bart
Miura senior (Japanese)
Alan Arnette
David Tait
Rodrigo Raineri (Vitor Negrete’s mate) and Eduardo Keppke (no 02)
Gnaro’s Share Everest
www.marcoconfortola.it
Andalusian Lina
www.stephan-keck.at
Keck at www.alpinist.at
Francois Guy Thivierge
SpaceRef.com carrying news of Scott Parazynski
Scott Parazynski blog
Martin McGarvey’s blog
Vietnam Everest

OTHER HIMALYA

Makalu

UK Royal Navy
Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Gustavo Burda
Andrew Lock
French Makalu
Santiago Quintero
Blair Falahey
Joao Garcia
Ralf Dujmovits’ updates
Spanish paper covering Lolo Gonzales
Andalusia/Basques and Lolo Gonzales dispatches
Latvia:Atis Plakans (leader), Liga Plakane, and Kaspars Klapkalns
News on Juanito on Marca.com

Manaslu

Dutch team expedition website
Katja Staartjes
Menno Boermans
Amical
Maxut’s updates on Mount.kz (Russian)

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri west face Babanov/Nick Totmjanin
news on the Argentinean team
Martin Minarik
Radek Jaros and Zdenek Hruby
Kinga and Kasia
Gerlinde
Carlos Pauner, Javier Perez and Marta Alexandre
Ivan Vallejo
Polish Dhaula with Artur Hajzer and Ryszard Pawlowski
Himalaya Maestrat
Lithuanian expedition
News on Al filo team on S.Alvaro’s blog

Annapurna

Inaki Ochoa
Horia Colibasanu
Don Bowie
Piotr Pustelnik’s dispatches
Peter Hamor’s website
Piotr Morawski’s website
Bogomolov updates on RussianClimb
Ueli Steck
Annapurna 4 ski expedition
Radek Jaros and Zdenek Hruby

Lhotse

DCXP
Rosa’s updates on LNE
Mario Merelli’s website

Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

I would like to invite you to watch one of movie of Everest Summit. Olympic Torch Relay on the Top of World at Everest

http://www.worldwone.com In a remarkable feat of coordination and logistics the Olympic Torch reaches the peak of Everest 2 hours earlier than expected. Live coverage. In a party atmosphere the climbers were “shouting and singing.”
The final torch bearer is a Tibetan woman, at 21 the youngest member of the team and one of two Tibetans in the 12 strong summit team. The climbers were selected after a nationwide search for Mountaineer students who had already climbed well at 6000 meters. Initially 50 were chosen before deciding on the final 31, 22 of whom were from Tibet.

The Olympic Torch reaches the top of the world, the peak of Mount Everest carried by a superb Chinese team; echoing the Olympic moto: citius,altius,fortius; swifter HIGHER stronger.

Beijing olympic torch relay on Everest Summit

… more : – http://www.youtube.com/my_favorites
** see alsow :

I would like to invite you to watch one of movie of Everest Summit.

2008 Beijing Olympic Torch Relay on Everest Summit.

… more : – http://www.youtube.com/my_favorites

** see alsow :

HiMalayan Expedition – Dhaulagiri 2008 – in review.

Climbers summited Dhaulagiri.

Yesterday Artur Hajzer summited Dhaulagiri I together with his companion Robert Szymczak. After 20 long years he climbed an 8000er summit again! This was his first 8000er ascent after he stopped climbing because of the loss of his friend Jerzy Kukuczka. He summited Tirich Mir in 1983, Manaslu in 1986, Annapurna I in winter 1987, Shisha Pangma by a new route along the West ridge in the autumn of 1987 and Annapurna I East-Peak in 1988 by a new route. The last three ascents he was accompanied by Jerzy Kukuczka.

Further Plans
05.05.2008

When there are no critical situations, Artur and Robert are preparing for their summit ascend. They are planning to leave the base camp on the 7th of May. On the 10th of May, the weather is supposed to be good (so-called summit weather window). During this day, they want to attack the summit.

Rysiek and Piotr are also packing, but for the descend to the valley and their return to the country. Tight schedule prevent them from the continuation of mountain action.

Greetings
HiMalayan Expedition – Dhaulagiri 2008

The day before the peak ascent
07.05.2008

In the morning, we have packed Kinga Baranowska and one of the Lithuanians into the helicopter. 56-year old Lithuanian fell ill yesterday and he probably has a slight brain embolism. The contact with him is limited. He was given first aid by Ania Czerwińska and his partners brought him down. During night, Robert tried to improve his state of health, but without satisfying results.

Argentine System

In the afternoon, two Sherpas have brought down one Argentinian – the last of the conquerors of the summit (on the 1st of May) who lost his partner in the peak’s cupola and is exhausted and frost-bitten.

Four-person, Argentinian expedition was and is very peculiar. Practically, they don’t have any base camp, staff, cook or someone like that. They slept, cooked and ate in one, four-person tent.

They don’t have any money, insurance or equipment. Nothing, just nothing. They ascended the peak without acclimatization. To make things more interesting, everybody tried to help, seek and save (Sherpas were paid by Italians) apart from the Argentinians themselves. Even today, everybody has watched out for the rescued apart from the Argentinian who has to be woken up to take care of his friend.

Plans

Tomorrow on the 7th of May, Robert, Artur and 10 other people are living the base camp to ascend the summit. Everything is ready. Cross your fingers.

Today Artur and Robert stood on the summit of Dhaulagiri!!!
11.05.2008

Today, 11 of May, at 2:45 p.m. local time, two members of HiMalayan Expedition – Dhaulagiri 2008: Artur Hajzer and Robert Szymczak stood on peak of the “White Mountain” (8176 meters above sea level).

At this moment both of them are feel quite good and they’re going down to Base 3.

We’re waiting for full relation of members of the expedition.

HiMalayan Expedition – Dhaualgiri 2008

HiMalayan Expedition – Dhaulagiri 2008 – wieści z wyprawy. Himalaiści zdobyli Dhaulagiri.

Dzień przed wyjściem szczytowym
06.05.2008

Rano zapakowaliśmy do helikoptera Kingę Baranowską i jednego z Litwinów. 56 – ścio letni Litwin zachorował dzień wcześniej w obozie i chyba ma lekki zator mózgu. Kontakt z nim jest bardzo ograniczony. Pierwszej pomocy udzieliła mu Ania Czerwińska a do bazy sprowadzili go jego partnerzy. Robert starał się przez noc doprowadzić do poprawy jego stanu zdrowia ale bez zadowalających rezultatów.

SYSTEM ARGENTYNSKI

W południe zszedł do bazy (sprowadzony przez dwóch Szerpów) Argetyńczyk -ostatni ze zdobywców szczytu 1 maja, który w kopule szczytowej stracił partnera i sam jest wycieńczony i odmrożony.

4 osobowa wyprawa argentyńska była i jest bardzo kuriozalna. Nie maja oni praktycznie bazy ani żadnej obsługi, kucharza czy kogoś w tym rodzaju. Spali, gotowali, jedli w jednym 4 – osobowym namiocie.

Nie mają pieniędzy, ubezpieczenia, sprzętu. Nic, po prostu nic. Na szczyt poszli bez żadnej aklimatyzacji.

Żeby było jeszcze ciekawiej to wszyscy starali się pomóc, ratować, szukać (Szerpów opłacili Włosi) tylko nie sami Argetyńczycy. Nawet dzisiaj jak wszyscy wypatrywali sprowadzanego, który w końcu dotarł, jego partner spał i trzeba go było budzić żeby przejął kolegę.

PLANY

Jutro 7 maja Robert, Artur i ok. 10 osób innych wypraw wychodzą z bazy z zamiarem zdobycia szczytu. Wszystko gotowe, trzymajcie kciuki.

Pozdrawiamy
HiMalajska Wyprawa – Dhaulagiri 2008

Zgodnie z planem
08.05.2008

W dniu dzisiejszym HiMalajska Wyprawa – Dhaulagiri dotarła do obozu drugiego. Wszystko idzie zgodnie z planem i mamy nadzieję, że juz niebawem uczestnicy wyprawy staną na szczycie Dhaulagiri. Trzymamy kciuki!

“W Szczytowej Formie” – Artur i Robert stanęli na wierzchołku Dhaulagiri!!!
11.05.2008

Dzisiaj, 11 maja, o godzinie 14:45 czasu lokalnego, dwójka uczestników HiMalajskiej Wyprawy – Dhaulagiri 2008: Artur Hajzer i Robert Szymczak stanęli na szczycie “Białej Góry” (8167 m n.p.m.).

Wiemy jak dotąd, że spośród wszystkich himalaistów, którzy dzisiaj byli w obozie 3 atak na szczyt Dhaulagiri podjęli tylko Artur i Robert. Przez to, że szli z obozu 3 tylko we dwójke, droga na wierzchołek była znacznie trudniejsza i cięższa. Tak samo schodzi się w dół. Powrót do obozu 3 ze szczytu góry nie daje żadnych ułatwień w pokonaniu tej trasy. Mimo to, dzięki profesjonalizmowi Artura i Roberta; ich przygotowaniu się do tego wyczynu; sporym doświadczeniu i wiedzy, a przede wszystkim dzięki ich pasji, stanęli na szczycie Dhaulagiri.

W tej chwili oboje w “szczytowej formie” odpoczywają w obozie 3.

Czekamy z niecierpliwością na pełną relację ze zdobycia szczytu przez “HiMalajską Wyprawę-Dhaulagiri 2008″

Gratulujemy Wam Serdecznie!!!

Załoga HiMountain

źródło : – http://www.himountain.pl/

Himalayan Trilogy once again – mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition 2008 – expedition closed

Himalayan Triptych Reactivated – mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition – day 52 May 07, 2008.

According to a short message received yesterday, the mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition team have decided to discontinue their attempts. Because of adverse weather conditions described a few days ago, they did not manage to reach the summit. They spent over two days descending to the BC in atrocious weather. Apart from light frostbites they?re feeling fine and are waiting for helicopter transport to Pokhara. Full dispatch describing their final push will follow soon

Wyprawa mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition zakończona

Tryptyk Reaktywacja część pierwsza: mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition – dzień 52

Wyprawa dobiega końca. Ekipa dotarła już do Pokhary i z niecierpliwością oczekuje na transport do Kathmandu skąd dalej już do kraju…

Niepowodzeniem, ale szczęśliwie zakończyła się wyprawa mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition.

Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor (Słowacja), Piotr Morawski, Darek Załuski zdobywali Annapurnę drogą czeską (zwaną także drogą Gabbarrova) na północno-zachodniej ścianie. Droga ta została pokonana pierwszy i jedyny raz przez zespół Nežerka/Martiš w 1988 roku.

Północno-zachodnia ściana Annapurny i droga Gabbarrova (droga czeska) wraz z miejscami potencjalnych obozów (C1, C2, C3)

Trudna technicznie północno-zachodnia ściana Anapurny ma prawie 3 km długości i średnie nachylenie ok. 60-65°. Wypróbowany we wspólnych bojach zespół wspinał się praktycznie w stylu alpejskim, nie zakładając klasycznych obozów. Główny ciężar prowadzenia wzięli na siebie Morawski i Hamor.

Po 6 dniach wspinaczki zespół biwakował (już bez śpiworów i z minimalną ilością gazu) na Turni Gabbarrova, praktycznie na końcu północno-zachodniej ściany. Następnego dnia po pokonaniu ostatnich 100 metrów ściany osiągnęli zachodnią grań Annapurny. Do szczytu się pozostało “jedynie” 3 km trudnej grani.

O godzinie 12.00, po 4 godzinach wspinaczki, gdy znaleźli się pod turnią szczytową, zaczął wiać huraganowy wiatr, a ciemny wał chmur zwiastował nadchodzącą burzę. Zaledwie 150 metrów przed szczytem zdecydowali się na odwrót, który miał dramatyczny przebieg. Wystarczy powiedzieć, że grań w dół zajęła im 6,5 godziny, a każdy ze wspinaczy został “liźnięty” piorunem. Dopiero o 21.00 udało im się dotrzeć do biwaku na Turni Gabbarrova.

Odmrożeni wspinacze osiągnęli bazę po 2,5 dniach wyczerpującego i trudnego technicznie zejścia.

Warto przytoczyć, tu słowa Piotra Pustelnika, który próbował zdobyć Annapurnę po raz czwarty i jest to ostatni szczyt, jakiego brakuje mu do zdobycia Korony Himalajów:

To była najtrudniejsza i najpiękniejsza droga w mojej himalaskiej karierze. Pokonaliśmy piękną i niepowtórzoną do tej pory ścianę. […] Udało nam się przeżyć ponieważ stanowimy jeden z najlepszych himalajskich zespołów.

PIOTR MORAWSKI WRACA DO POLSKI

Piotr Morawski z Alpinus Expedition Team oraz Piotr Pustelnik, Dariusz Załuski i Peter Hamor zdecydowali o pożegnaniu z Annapurną. Bez wątpienia, dzięki decyzji o odwrocie na ok. 40 minut wspinaczki przed szczytem (ok. 150 m przed wierzchołkiem), ekipa uniknęła tragedii (niezwykle silna burza śnieżna oraz walące w szczyt i ekipę pioruny) .
Obecnie (7.05) Piotr Morawski, Piotr Pustelnik, Dariusz Załuski i Peter Hamor są w Pokharze. Z niecierpliwością i licznymi odmrożeniami oczekują na transport do Kathmandu, skąd dalej już do kraju…

Z relacji – zarówno Piotra Morawskiego, jak i Piotra Pustelnika – wynika, że Panowie przeżyli jedną z najtrudniejszych wypraw w swoim życiu, a decyzję o tym, że zawrócili, podpowiedział im rozsądek. Północno-zachodnia ściana Annapurny, jeszcze na 3 km przed szczytem wydawała się do zdobycia. Gdy jednak nad wierzchołek nadciągnęły potężne czarne chmury, szybki odwrót był jedyną możliwą decyzją. Były chwile, kiedy potwornie silny wiatr uniemożliwiał oddychanie.

Ekipa jednak przyznaje zgodnie, że mimo wszystko było warto, bo przeżyła wspaniałą, bardzo trudną wyprawę i to w świetnym zespole.

* dodano – 2008-05-08

- zobacz poprzednie posty :

-  Himalayan Trilogy once again, part 1 – Annapurna West Face. Tryptyk Reaktywacja, cz. 1: mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition. /Version english and polish/

-  Himalayan Trilogy once again, part 2 – Annapurna West Face. Tryptyk Reaktywacja, cz. 2: mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition. /Version english and polish/

-  Himalayan Trilogy once again, part 3 – Annapurna West Face. Tryptyk Reaktywacja, cz. 3: mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition. /Version polish/

** źródła : – http://www.goryonline.com/ – http://www.wspinanie.pl/ – http://www.trekandmore.pl/

*** zapraszam na relacje z innych wypraw polskich himalaistów.

oryginal post by : – http://himalayanadventure.eu/